Chef Jiho Kim (DdoBar) opens Joomak, a new iteration of his former Michelin-starred restaurant, Joomak Banjum, at Maison Hudson New York [401 West St, New York, NY 10014]. Now simply called “Joomak,” the restaurant is an elevated update in a more intimate and luxurious space with just 27 seats. The menu features New American cuisine with a touch of Korean culinary influence, showcasing playful techniques and an eye for detail as inspired by his pastry background. Joomak will open with an eight-course tasting menu to start, complemented by a robust wine program featuring French-forward wines that aims to be both refined yet approachable.
Chef Jiho Kim started his career as a pastry chef in 2004, previously having worked at L’espalier in Boston, and with chef Gordon Ramsay and his international restaurant group Gordon Ramsay Hospitality. Most notably, Jiho served as the Executive Pastry Chef at Union Square Hospitality Group’s two Michelin-starred restaurant, The Modern, inside New York City’s iconic Museum of Modern Art, for close to seven years. During the pandemic, Jiho ran a series of pop-ups in New York City further exploring his Korean culinary side, eventually leading to him opening Joomak Banjum, which garnered critical acclaim and a Michelin star in its first year. Jiho is also currently the Chef/Owner of DDOBAR, which specializes in “yubutarts,” creative riffs on traditional Korean yubuchobap (fried tofu pockets stuffed with vinegared rice), showcasing the whimsical “pastry cuisine” that Jiho has become known for.
Jiho is joined by Chef de Cuisine Truman Parsons, formerly of Per Se and Le Bernardin, and Tani Albert as the Beverage Director and Sommelier for Joomak, who was previously at Aquavit and Gramercy Tavern. Joomak is also in partnership with 16 On Center, a Chicago-based hospitality and entertainment collective known for revitalizing historic buildings into innovative music venues and restaurants.
Joomak is centered around an eight-course tasting menu ($280 per person) that features New American cuisine with touches of Korean culinary influence, with techniques that demonstrate Jiho’s eye for detail and presentation as a pastry chef. Guests are welcomed with an Amuse Bouche of three decadent bites that represent iconic eats of the New York City: a King Salmon Everything Bagel, a nod to the classic bagel and lox, made with meringue topped with king salmon; Choux à la Otoro, a trompe-l’œil of a smash burger, made from lightly cooked otoro and an egg yolk gelee in between a choux pastry; and an A5 Wagyu & Hokkaido Uni Sando, based on a favorite from Joomak Banjum, now as an open-faced sandwich served on housemade baguette.
The next few courses inventively integrate Jiho’s expertise in pastry technique. The Golden Ossetra Caviar is a callback to a dessert Jiho served at The Modern, now reborn as a savory rendition, with caviar spooned on top of dill custard, complemented with cornichon and crème fraîche. The Pretzel Croissant is another ode to one of Jiho’s most famous desserts, featuring a mini croissant served with whole-grain mustard. Refreshing Amadai crudo, sourced from California, is bright and served with shiso French verbena espuma, green apple, and yuzu kosho.
Seafood courses include the umami-rich Scallop with truffle, smoked dashi panna cotta, and brown butter sabayon; Langoustine—inspired by bouillabaisse and Korean maeuntang, a spicy fish stew—made with chrysanthemum, potato, gochujang and gochugaru; and Norwegian King Crab, with a hearty serving of kani miso mixed with Koshihikari rice (influenced by Korean gaesal, a crab and rice dish), served with pickled chayote and a gochujang tuille envelope invoking a ramen flavor packet, which guests are instructed to crumble and mix with the rice. Meat courses include the Long Island Duck Breast prepared Peking duck-style, served with a quince tarte tatin, French onion duck jus, a sliver of crispy duck skin and a duck croquette; and a supplemental Surf n’ Turf ($55) is also available, featuring A5 Wagyu loin and maitake mushroom, served with abalone, beef jus, and seasoned with soy sauce and nori for a classic Korean flavor profile.
To round out the menu, Jiho recreated two of his career signature desserts: Banana Bread Pudding with dried banana, a triple layer of warm bread pudding, chocolate mousse, creme brulee and lychee, served with a side of butter beer ice cream (a fun nod from Jiho who always considers winter as “Harry Potter season”); and a Coconut Mango Shumai, with the dumpling wrapper made from dried mango, filled with coconut sorbet.
A vegetarian tasting menu ($250 per person) is also available, featuring alternate dishes such as Pink Lady Apple Ceviche with winter kimchi, serrano and an avocado and cilantro coulis; Koshikari Rice Porridge with charred scallion, onion dashi, Tokyo turnip and shaved black truffle; and a Maitake Mushroom Tartlet with caramelized shallot puree and a port sherry sauce, among others.
Wine Director Tani Albert has curated a sophisticated wine list at Joomak, from approachable and everyday options all the way to truly special and rare bottles to celebrate special occasions. The list has a heavy emphasis on high-quality regions in France including Burgundy, Champagne, Bordeaux, as well as greater Italy, with a balance of regions and styles that appeal to a broad range of palates. The cocktail menu is a tightly focused list of options featuring a mix of fresh, herbal, and umami-driven notes, with drinks like the Mane & Tail with rye, yuzu and vermut rosé; April Wind with gin, cherry blossom and quinquina; Perfect Fourth with calvados, white port and tonic; and The Good Word with rum, Benedictine, amaro and lime.
Designed by New York-based designer Thomas Juul-Hansen (The Seville, Jean-Georges, Jojo, and more), Joomak showcases contemporary elegance and comfort. Located on the second floor of the Maison Hudson New York, the ultra-luxury residential hotel in the West Village, the restaurant is open to both the public and hotel guests. The warm, inviting dining room invokes a residential ambiance with warm wood paneling and patina mirrors, luxurious Italian furnishings by Giorgetti, all illuminated by ethereal alabaster lighting from Alain Ellouz, and a six-foot fireplace to anchor the room. A five-seat bar offers an intimate chef’s counter experience, while bespoke upholstered lounge seating with marble-topped tables are suitable for two-tops and small groups. An enclosed outdoor terrace will open in the warmer months.
Joomak is open from Tuesday–Thursday from 5:00–9:00PM and Friday–Saturday from 5:00–10:00PM. Reservations can be made on OpenTable. An a la carte menu will roll out in the near future.
