Oakland Welcomes New Contemporary Afghan Restaurant From Couple Behind Parche

A New Chapter for Sophia Akbar and Paul Iglesias: Bringing the Flavors of Home to Expats and Celebrating Afghan Culture with Warm, Heartfelt Hospitality

Lisa Hay
By Lisa Hay Add a Comment
Photo: Hardy Wilson
On Thursday, January 30Jaji will open its doors in Uptown, marking the launch of Sophia Akbar and Paul Iglesias’ second full-service restaurant and first Afghan concept. Housed in the former Occitania space at 422 24th St, Jaji brings a modern and progressive perspective to Afghan cuisine, blending ancestral traditions with the dynamic influences of the diaspora. Named after Akbar’s ancestral Pashtun tribe and her grandfather’s last name, Jaji pays homage to the resilience and stories of Afghan-American heritage, honoring those who fled the country from conflict in the 1970s up until the 2000s. The restaurant aims to offer more than a meal—it is a concept-driven space that redefines Afghan cuisine for modern audiences. Jaji will feature an innovative food and beverage program designed to spark discovery, foster connection, and celebrate the untold stories of modern Afghan culture.
After operating a successful contemporary Colombian restaurant for two years, the couple embarks on a new culinary journey tapping into Akbar’s heritage. Much like Parche, Jaji will serve as a lively cultural hub, a welcoming haven for Afghan-Americans and anyone curious about the richness of Afghan culture. Much like the city of Oakland itself, Jaji embodies resilience, femininity and representation, aligning with the city’s spirited culinary landscape and rooted in tradition.
“Jaji is the expression of an Afghan-American woman paving way into the culinary world. Watching how well received Parche was, it felt like the right time and place to execute a similar concept with our next venture.” – said Sophia Akbar, Co-Owner in a statement
Jaji’s menu offers an exploration of Afghan culinary traditions reimagined with modern techniques and neighboring influences, delving deep into the stories that honors the past while embracing the present. Curated by Paul Iglesias, who spent months collaborating alongside Akbar’s own mother, Maria Jaji, and grandmother, Asia Jaji, translating and sifting through family recipes and conceptualizing them into something both authentic and approachable. From incorporating aromatic spices and various kebabs to unique vegetarian creations, Jaji’s menu reflects the depth of Afghan cuisine and home cooking while presenting them in a new light set for restaurant production.
Afghanistan, located in Central Asia, has developed a diverse culinary heritage, heavily shaped by Persian, Central Asian, and Indian cooking. Utilizing recognizable ingredients like mung beans, mini eggplants, saffron, cumin, ginger, and dhal, Jaji’s dishes are a culmination of centuries-old traditions and cross-cultural exchanges, thoughtfully conceived. The menu is organized by small bites and skewers, like the Ducktu, a dish featuring shredded confit duck legs seasoned with cumin and coriander, wrapped in delicate wonton wrappers and paired with a white miso and duck broth consommé, or the Wagyu Top Sirloin Skewer marinated in pomegranate ginger syrup and the Ground Lamb Skewer with yogurt, lemon zest and mint. And while all the red meat is Halal, there are plenty of vegetarian options like the Shola-Qorooti Arancinis with mung bean, Calrose rice, walnut-qoroot aioli and mint oil, Sabzi Galet with spinach stew sabzi, yogurt espuma and clover sprouts, the Narenj Pallow a saffron rice with an orange-saffron challow rice, infused with green cardamom, pistachio and almonds. Meat forward dishes include the Fried Snow Trout with saffron, Afghan chili oil, and a micro herb salad, or the Chicken Liver Mousse topped with seed mix, pomegranate seeds, pine nuts and thick slice of house made brioche. For the pièce de résistance, the braised Lamb Shank with Mastawa, a traditional Tajik and Uzbek dish utilizing rice pilaf.
Jaji’s beverage program is a harmonious collaboration between Eric Syed, Parche’s Beverage Director, and Paul Iglesias. Together, they crafted an Afghan-inspired cocktail menu that bridges tradition and modernity. Drawing inspiration from Pashtunwali, a code of honor, customs and social behaviors that guide the Pashtun people. These principles are the fundamental aspect of Afghan hospitality especially towards guests. The beverage program features inventive libations infused with tea, yogurt and dried herbs & spices, creative drinks that perfectly complement Jaji’s cuisine. This menu seamlessly blends Iglesias’ expertise in cultural storytelling through cocktails and Syed’s knack for pushing creative boundaries, resulting in a one-of-a-kind beverage experience that elevates Afghan flavors to new heights like the Zira Gold made with Banhez mezcal, lime, cumin syrup, cilantro and black pepper tincture, which was inspired by how cumin used to be used as currency along the Silk Road. Or the Ancient Roots made with Redwood Empire Bourbon, Oloroso Sherry, turmeric syrup, egg white and lemon and honors the root vegetable as a staple ingredient that was used in both food and medicine for centuries.
Syed and Iglesias have also explored the savory components of Afghan cooking, incorporating ingredients such as turmeric, coriander, and saffron into their drinks. “It was my first time working with some of these elements,” Iglesias notes, “and they turned out to be both fun and beautiful to use.” Their playful approach includes experimenting with clarifications, jewel-tone hues, and ingredients influenced by Afghanistan’s neighbors, like an Indian-inspired Rooh Afza syrup usually paired with cold milk and ice, but transformed into the Salaamati combining John Barr Scotch, Plantation Rum, Rooh Afza, Pineapple and Dogh Yogurt. These savory components offer more experimentation with non-alcoholic offerings, a cornerstone of the beverage program. Leaning heavily on high-quality non-alcoholic spirits and wines—such as Leitz non-alcoholic wines from Germany—the team ensures these options shine as bright as any cocktail. By treating non-alcoholic beverages with thoughtfulness and creativity, Jaji offers guests a meaningful, elevated experience that not only complements the food, but adds a vital storytelling element. The inclusive beverage menu reimagines what’s possible in the sober space, making these offerings a pivotal part of the project.
Jaji’s design was brought to life through a collaboration with Akta Design, to beautifully capture the feminine essence of Afghanistan, offering a striking contrast to the traditionally masculine tones of the culture. The design blends cultural components with modern touches to create an immersive dining experience. Every detail of the space tells a story, honoring Afghan traditions, landscapes, and artistry. Upon entering the restaurant, guests can view a collection of family heirlooms, including Afghan drums and intricate headpieces, giving the space a deeply personal and authentic touch. Overhead, 336 flowing pink, yellow, and orange fabrics evoke the image of poppies in the sky, an Afghan symbol of sacrifice in the first World War. The color palette balances vibrant tones with rich hues as seen in the elaborate rugs and textured furniture. The curvatures of the walls and various slopes mirror the country’s majestic mountain ranges and diverse terrain. Mixed metals and reclaimed materials, including a beautifully restored wooden door and patterned tiles, mark the entrance to the hidden back bar, further grounding the design in a sense of history and craftsmanship.
The result is a restaurant that seamlessly embodies their vision, offering multiple distinct yet harmonious spaces, each designed to deliver a unique experience. In addition to the main dining room and bar, two spacious booths near the kitchen have been thoughtfully reserved for Chef’s Tastings. These exclusive tables will showcase curated tasting menus, inviting guests to partake in immersive dining experiences that celebrate Afghan flavors while fostering culinary education and exploration.
Behind the main bar lies the B.Akbar, an intimate, red-walled enclave transformed into a hidden speakeasy. Accessible through a discreet private entrance, this exclusive space offers a 90-minute curated drinking experience for up to 20 guests at a time. The menu places a strong emphasis on expertly crafted cocktails and innovative non-alcoholic beverages, each paired with thoughtfully curated small bites, encouraging conversations. With crackling vinyls spinning and its intimate ambiance, B.Akbar exudes a sophisticated “if you know, you know” allure—a late night experience reimagining nightlife as a space for connection, creativity and discovery or those looking for a new kind of social environment.

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Lisa is a staff reporter for What Now Media Group. She covers new restaurant, retail, and real estate openings across all of our markets. A true foodie, this Air Force veteran has lived all over the world — from Aviano, Italy to Nairobi, Kenya — but her favorite spot is NOLA for its rich history, architecture, culture, and of course, its good eats.
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