Kooth Hospitality and chef Isao Yamada open the doors to Yamada, a kaiseki chef’s counter in Manhattan’s Chinatown. Yamada joins the hospitality group’s other establishments, Nakaji and Kono, in the Canal Arcade – a nondescript passageway that is home to some of the most authentically Japanese gastronomic gems in the city. At Yamada, guests will enjoy a multi-course kaiseki tasting menu guided by the principles of seasonality (shun), harmony (chōwa), and mindfulness (ikigai). The cuisine is rooted in Japanese fundamentals and presented in chef Yamada’s distinctive style.
Earlier in his career, chef Yamada studied and worked throughout Japan, immersing himself in the intricacies of seasonal Japanese cuisine and the rituals of tea ceremony. He held positions at the Kyoto branch of Kitcho (a distinguished kaiseki restaurant in which guests dine in traditional zashiki rooms), and later ventured to Ryotei Hanzuiryo (a ryokan in Nagasaki) to further refine his craft. In 2000, chef Yamada opened his first restaurant, Kaiseki Hanaei, in his hometown of Fukuoka. Surrounded by the sea and mountains, Yamada had the opportunity to integrate the cuisine of the local Kyushu region with Kyoto culture. Later, he met the late chef David Bouley who invited Yamada to join him in the opening of Brushstroke in New York City. During his tenure as Executive Chef of Brushstroke – one of the city’s earliest kaiseki dining experiences – Yamada seamlessly integrated his profound reverence for Japan’s seasonal food culture and earned the restaurant a Michelin star.
Today, he brings decades of experience and expertise to his eponymous chef’s counter restaurant for a deeply personal display of kaiseki dining that blends tradition with innovation. There are two nightly seatings at the intimate 10-seat counter, where guests can enjoy his seasonal 10-course tasting menu (priced at $300 per person). The menu progresses through distinct cooking methods while harmoniously balancing the colors, textures, and flavors of the season.
The Spring menu opens with Sakizuke, a delicate bite of Hokkaido monkfish liver simmered in sweet soy, paired with Mediterranean red shrimp dressed with spring clams and served with kinome ponzu. This is followed by Chawanmushi, a fixture on Yamada’s menus that feature a silky, savory steamed egg custard topped with Taraba king crab and Hokkaido uni. Next, guests will enjoy Tsukuri, a selection of sashimi that has been aged, lightly smoked, marinated, or prepared using expert techniques to enhance its flavors; Otoro, the prized belly of bluefin tuna; and Owan, a rich Hamaguri clam broth flecked with Sakura Ebi and a Nantucket Bay scallop cake. The meal continues with Spring Hassun, an artful assortment of seasonal delicacies, followed by Mebaru, sweet Goldeneye Rockfish slow-grilled over charcoal with crisped Shirauo (ice fish), and a grilled Wagyu course featuring Sakura leaf-aged organic A5 Wagyu from Eda Farm in Kyushu’s Miyazaki prefecture. The final savory course, Donabe, is another Yamada signature. Using a traditional clay pot, he prepares Tsuyahime rice – a new variety from the Akita Prefecture – cooked with Hotaru Ika (firefly squid) and Ikura. To conclude the meal, guests will indulge in an array of seasonal desserts including Amazake ice cream; Awayuki strawberry; Yozakura-yokan (red bean jelly); and Matcha Tiramisu, alongside Usucha, a finely whisked Japanese tea preparation featuring ‘Isuzu’ Kyoto Uji matcha.
On the beverage front, Yamada’s focus remains on its carefully curated collection of wine and sake, complemented by a selection of specialty Japanese sake, shochu, whisky, and highballs.
Chef Yamada, in collaboration with Kooth Hospitality and New York City-based architectural and interior design firm BLANK Creations, designed the space to embody “Japandi” – a design style influenced by the Japanese philosophy of wabi-sabi (beauty in simplicity) and the Scandinavian practice of hygge (coziness and comfort). At the heart of the space is the chef’s counter, a striking focal point crafted from a single slab of Hinoki – a sacred Japanese cypress known for its delicate grain and soothing aroma. The sunken kitchen, where Chef Yamada prepares the tasting menu in full view of guests, features dramatic black and gold marble, inspired by Kintsugi – the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery with gold – alongside a waterfall-edged, cream-toned marble cook and prep counter. Subtle pops of pastel hues punctuate the space, softening the neutral palette and adding a touch of warmth and playfulness, while textured walls and warm wood tones create layers of depth. To further highlight the restaurant’s connection to Japanese craftsmanship, the team collaborated with ceramicist Shinobu Habauchi to design custom plateware; they also sourced antique serving vessels and curated artifacts from across Japan, which are showcased on sleek floating shelves. Kan Asakura, an NYC-based landscape artist, designed two karesansui gardens, where carefully placed stones and raked gravel evoke a sense of serenity and meditative beauty. Every element has been carefully considered, ensuring that the design not only enhances the dining experience but also serves as an elegant reflection of Japanese artistry.
Yamada is located at 16 Elizabeth Street, inside the Canal Arcade, in New York City. The restaurant is open Tuesday through Saturday with seatings at 5:30PM and 8:30PM. Yamada is closed on Sunday and Monday. Cash and major credit cards are accepted. Reservations are required and can be booked all up to 14 days in advance at 12:00 AM (EST) via Resy or by emailing [email protected].
