For Chef/Owner Christian Hernandez, opening Barbacana wasn’t simply about launching another restaurant; it was about bringing years of experience back to the city that shaped him. Located in Downtown Houston, at 907 Franklin St., the venue offers a refined-yet-approachable dining experience inspired by the city’s remarkable cultural diversity.
Barbacana showcases globally influenced cuisine while embracing sustainable, low-waste practices. To make it all happen, Hernandez has drawn on his background in cooking, all the way from childhood into careers at Michelin-starred kitchens in New York City and Mexico City, as well as his work at acclaimed Houston restaurants BCN and March.
“I started cooking from a young age to help out around the house and then to help bring in some money,” Hernandez tells WhatNow Houston in an exclusive interview. “After majoring in biomedical science in college, I fell back into cooking as a career and fell in love with the craft and the discipline involved in doing it at a high level.”
That passion eventually grew into a larger vision to be the one running a locally acclaimed F&B business. He envisioned Barbacana as an homage to H-town.
“The idea came from my love of the city,” Hernandez explains. “Although I was born overseas, Houston has always been home. My family has deep roots in the restaurant industry here. Being able to return to Houston and share all of my experience while simultaneously showcasing the incredible diversity of the city is the biggest honor.”
Choosing Downtown was an intentional decision for Hernandez, who wanted to contribute to an area he believes deserves renewed attention. The restaurant’s location in one of Houston’s oldest neighborhoods. Barbacana sits near Allen’s Landing, the historic site widely recognized as the birthplace of Houston.
“I wanted to open up in a community that could benefit the most from a concept like ours,” he says. “Downtown is an area of Houston that I believe is underserved and under-appreciated. I’ve always loved downtown and, especially after COVID, I think it’s incredibly important for a great city to have a great Downtown.”
Since opening, Hernandez says guests have embraced both the restaurant’s creativity and its willingness to introduce diners to unfamiliar ingredients and preparations. The eatery reflects that mission through an ever-evolving menu featuring seasonal ingredients, globally inspired techniques, and thoughtfully crafted dishes that encourage guests to explore flavors they may not encounter elsewhere.
“Our guests are happy and really appreciate what we’re trying to do,” he says. “I think it can be a learning curve to some, just because of how international our menu is and the fact that we prefer to use lesser-known cuts and change our selections with the seasons. However, after a couple of bites any hesitancy generally goes out the door, and we love to hear the journey people go on while dining with us.”
Alongside an à la carte menu, the restaurant also offers a Chef’s Tasting Counter, complemented by handcrafted cocktails and an extensive wine program featuring both classic producers and modern biodynamic winemakers.
As a restaurateur, Hernandez says the greatest challenges — and rewards — come down to the people you encounter in the business.
He credits the team around him for bringing Barbacana’s vision to life. Leadership includes Sous Chef Hugo Castro, Pastry Chef Priscilla Trevino, Front of House Manager Hugo Paraizo, and Wine Director Mikey Fajardo, each contributing to the restaurant’s evolving dining experience. And while he and his team have no shortage of future restaurant ideas, their current focus remains firmly on continuing to build Barbacana.
“We’d love to do many more concepts. We all have so many ideas that we’d love to make real. But for the moment, the priority is still getting Barbacana where we want it to be,” Hernandez adds.
Part of that process includes truly immersing the concept into the local industry, building partnerships and furthering brand recognition.
Recently, professionals from Houston’s restaurant industry gathered at Barbacana for an “Accelerate” networking event hosted by What Now. The evening brought together restaurant owners, operators, and industry experts to exchange ideas and explore ways to succeed in an increasingly competitive hospitality market.
Hernandez said it was a great opportunity to network, share knowledge, and build each other up.
“Support good people making good things and tell your friends to do the same,” he shared.
