When it opens in April in the Lower East Side at 125 Division St., Little Pine will be owner Cathy Sun’s deeply personal tribute to the bold, soul-warming traditions of her native Northeast China, and how it relates to her current home in the Northeast US.
Inspired by the strong, evergreen spirit of the pine trees common to Northeast China and New York, Sun aims to showcase a Chinese cultural region that is also as resilient as it is flavorful.
“Northeast Chinese food is bold and hearty,” Sun recently told What Now New York. “It makes you feel homey.”
The Chinese region’s frigid winters have birthed a culture of gathering. In small farming villages, when the land freezes, families huddle around large tables to share slow-simmered stews and grilled meats.
“They have to gather to talk about things, to eat together, to celebrate someone’s wedding, and things like that,” Sun said. “We have a very social culture, and it’s the same in Upstate New York or New York City.”
At Little Pine, the menu will be both a culinary roadmap of the region and a scrapbook of memories. Sun said the classic Sweet & Sour Crispy Pork (Guo Bao Rou) is a traditional staple with a tangy soy glaze that her grandfather used to make for her. The extensive barbecue skewers program, featuring everything from cumin-spiced lamb to enoki mushrooms, evokes the night markets of Sun’s village. When the restaurant secures its liquor license, it will feature signature cocktails infused with the flavors of Northeast China.
But more important than the food and drink is the sense of hospitality that Sun is hoping to provide with Little Pine inside its massive 152-person space, which includes two bars and a soundproofed interior designed for conversation.
Frustrated by the small spaces, time limits, and high prices in some LES restaurants, Sun says she wants her customers at Little Pine to linger longer and enjoy each other’s company. She will try to keep prices approachable, especially at lunchtime, with an $18 combo meal menu.
“We have the space,” Sun said. “You can sit there for longer and have more food, have another drink.
“We want people to come, and we don’t care how much they spend, to be honest. We just want people to come and to be regulars.”
